Museum Nord
Lofoten, Norway, Scandinavia
68°8’56.431” N, 13°45’34.764” E
Anna jumper Lofoten wool 2022
Wool
Manual wool processing from shearing to yarn, dying and knitting
50 cm length x 40 cm width approx.
Textile artisan Ragnhild Lie discovered that most of the wool from the area was being sent out of the country while people were knitting with foreign-produced yarn. This led her to reclaim the wool and cultural heritage in the craft. With a background in working with wool, Lie decided to establish a workshop centred around sheep, wool and craftsmanship on her small farm. In 2013, she introduced the first 6 wild sheep to the farm. Lofoten Wool was founded in 2014, with sustainability at the core of everything they do. Their commitment to quality, both in design and product, forms the foundation of their work. Lofoten Wool believes in a short production line with local roots that take into account and continue old handicraft traditions. They shear their own sheep and take care of the cultural landscape through traditional grazing techniques. A modern garment with a new design based on a historical knitting tradition is the result.
A gallery of images of the exhibit item.
Traditional practices with wool have developed to yarn production, and a substantial progress in knitting patterns and techniques. They also try to use as much of the sheep as possible: from making soap from the fat, liver pate from the meat, lamb roll, pinnekjøtt (traditional dish), and skin and yarn from the wool. The yarn is spun at Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk in Nordhordland before it gets dyed in Lofoten Wool’s workshop using natural colours, some of which come from traditions dating back to Viking times. The garments are hand-knit by local artisans, showcasing a love for craftsmanship and sustainability.
Without sheep and wool, people would never have been able to settle in the north. Wool, the raw material, is regionally distinct because of the unusual climatic conditions of the Lofoten Islands in Norway, north of the Arctic Circle. The wool comes from an old sheep variety “gammelnorsk sau”. The “gammlenorsk sau” sheep variety is extremely hardy and robust, thus tolerating the conditions outdoors all year around. They have a unique property of gaining as much of 40% of their body weight as fat and mobilise it during winter. Techniques of both fishing and wool treatment have been passed down through generations contributing to a distinct local expertise in both. This variety of sheep is most likely to be very similar to the one the Vikings had. Humans have learned countless techniques of weaving fibres and threads into textiles, and today knitting has become very popular, especially in Scandinavia. With just a few needles and some yarn, one can create useful and beautiful garments.
Located at 68° north, the Lofoten Islands present a geographical environment characterised by dramatic coastal landscapes of steep mountains emerging from the ocean surface. The rugged terrain, towering peaks and fjords, are complemented by a network of fishing villages that can be found along the coastline. Today, the islands also enjoy a rich tourist industry. Visitors from all over the world come to experience the stark landscape and the people who live in this harsh climate. Natural resources play a pivotal role in local craftsmanship and traditions. The cold, nutrient-rich waters surrounding Lofoten sustain a diverse marine ecosystem, providing a vital source of livelihood for the islanders. Historically, fishing and stockfish production have been central to the economy, culture, and survival of people. Warm clothes are essential in this climate. Local traditions in Lofoten are deeply intertwined with the geographical environment and resource utilisation. Festivals and rituals often revolve around the cycles of nature on land and sea, underlining the community’s dependence on these elements for sustenance and cultural identity. To understand the interplay between the unique geographical properties of the Lofoten Islands Arctic situation and the socio-cultural fabric of Lofoten, we need to understand the connection between the inhabitants and the environment.
Authors: Jonas Walsøe and Anna Insa Vermehren
References:
Lind, Vibeke, et al. “Gammelnorsk sau i unike kulturlandskap”. Bioforsk Rapport, V.X,N.47, 2015. Lofoten Wool. Accessed March 1st, 2024. https://lofoten-wool.no/
Svartedal, Nina. “Gammelnorsk sau”. NIBIO, 2017. Accessed March 1st, 2024.
Thorvaldsen, Pål, Liv Guri Velle, Ann Norderhaug and Samson Øpstad. “Gammalnorsk sau og skjøtsel av kystlyngheibeitepreferansar, beitetrykk og dyrevelferd”. NIBIO POP, V. III, N. 34, 2017.
Vermehren, Anna and Jonas Walsøe. “Museums’ contribution to the notion of food heritagisation: A case study of the Lofoten Islands”. DIAITA: Food&Heritage, 2024.
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